The Tonic of Rye
A post about the incredible people, shops, and food that make Rye a place I’m proud to call home (too sentimental?!)
This week’s edition of Life’s Tonics is all about my home town, Rye.
wrote this week in a (I hope) tongue in cheek way what a gorgeous (somewhat smug) treat it is for me to live by the sea - running through sand dunes every night to picnic on the beach….I mean, kinda. But it did make me reflect on what lucky sods we are to live here and I thought I’d share a few gems from Rye.We moved here the summer before lockdown, and while I’ve been commuting to London to
HQ for the past couple of years, I’ve found the balance (let’s call it that even though much of the time we know it’s a hectic hot mess) of city buzz and the restorative energy of seaside life. Rye is like any place - it’s the people who make it. But it’s the mix of these creative minds and the heady pull of the sea that truly makes Rye special. I often dream of opening something here myself, but for now, my commute to Ottolenghi is what feeds my mind. Rye is small enough to feel like a close-knit community, yet just big enough to offer a handful of wonderful shops and food spots (though, of course, I wouldn’t say no to a few more restaurants but you can pop to Hastings/St Leonards if you get bored!). Over time, I’ve honed my list of recommendations for those who come to stay in our little Airbnb cottage, so I thought I’d share some of those reccos here….McCully and Crane – The human magnets that brought us to Rye. We’d been visiting Marcus and Gareth for years before we decided to follow them down here. They own the gallery McCully and Crane, supporting so many great (and some local) artists, their eye for incredible pieces is second to none. I have a couple of pieces, but have to stop myself heading in on a weekly basis for more gems, follow their IG and thank me later.
Soap and Salvation – One of the most Instagrammable shops in Rye, owned by the lovely couple Barrie and Jo. They have an incredible eye for interiors, and they regularly hop over to France to source unique pieces. I go in for inspiration and chat, and I literally pine over every item in there.
Sailors – Our friend Martin runs this beautiful shop right next to The George Hotel. You will never leave empty-handed—whether it's amazing clothing, homewares, or the latest deliveries from Scribble and Daub and Water Lane Flowers.
Merchant and Mills – I couldn’t believe my luck when I found out Merchant and Mills is based in Rye. The shop is a treasure trove of incredible materials, and they also run courses (which I haven’t been on… yet). They even have a lovely house you can stay in while learning how to sew and nourish your creativity.
Hunter Jones – Home to the best socks (Le Bon Shoppe) I’ve ever worn. I swear by them! Plus, there’s this fragrance I always spray on myself when I walk in- Queer Magic by Urania. Michael has curated such an amazing shop in a tiny space, and I always find something special.
Puckhaber – Gorgeous antiques and a great selection of Amuse le Bouche tea towels.
And then, the food...
Okay, okay, it might sound like I know the whole of Rye, but honestly, it’s that kind of place. Anyway, here are some of my favourite spots to eat….
Best Café – The White House. Go early for their sourdough bread, then have the salmon hash. Our friend Rosie runs it and she’s also a gem (they also have rooms).
The Winery – Owner Ben and our lovely friend Tamsin did the interiors of this cavernous wine cellar, and it’s become the perfect spot for a Friday night pizza and a glass of fizz.
Best Fish and Chips – Marino’s is the go-to for perfect, crispy fish and chips. No contest here. I don’t know them but I wish I did when there’s a massive queue (order ahead in the Summer).
The Standard – Their chicken wings and burgers are top-notch, and our friends Tim and Claudia run it (also has rooms).
The Fig – Another Rosie-owned spot (a different Rosie), perfect for breakfast or cocktails. The vibe is always so welcoming and laid-back.
Tillingham – A great spot to visit for the stunning Marian Boswell garden design and great vineyard views. The pizza oven there is ace.
Fishmarket & Seafood Bar – A fun place to spend a summer evening, enjoying a glass of wine and fresh fish. Great for a casual night out.
The George – Perfect for a Friday night drink in the garden. It’s one of those local spots that just feels like home (Retrovious did the interiors with owner Katie).
Places to Visit whilst you’re here….
Dungeness Only a 20 minute drive away, Dungeness is a must. Climb to the top of the lighthouse for stunning views, then head to the Fish Shack for the freshest fried fish and potatoes. Don’t forget to visit Derek Jarman’s iconic yellow house, and if you're feeling adventurous, take a tiny train ride up the coast.
Great Dixter - probably my favourite place to solo visit and walk around the incredible gardens.
Rye Harbour Reserve – One of my favourite spots for a walk. There’s a great loop that takes you past the red hut, down to the beach and round the bird hides.
Beaches – If you get bored of Camber, try Winchelsea or Pett Level (both pebbly, but lovely for walks and a bit quieter).
Brede Woods – A great spot for nature lovers. We love walking here, building dens, and just getting lost in the trees.
Hastings & St Leonards – The arcades in Hastings are a bit of nostalgia, and there are some lovely places to eat, like Bayte, Farmyard, and Coquina (located in the Hastings Gallery). Also, the Goat Ledge Café on the beach is a treat. The Crown Pub and The Royal are the best pubs.
And Airbnbs? For larger groups it’s got to be Home of the Landgate, often wish I could stay there by myself for a few nights. Perfect location. And just 10 steps away is Dot cottage, also of instagram fame, or our 1 bed a 5 minute walk up the hill.
I keep hovering over the send button this week as I don’t want to paint a smushy ‘my life is fecking great ALL THE TIME’ vibes, but this substack is all about the tonics of life and living here is one…so here goes….xx